Lolita Fashion emphasizes layering at its core, so it should come as no surprise that it becomes challenging to enjoy the frills when the temperature and/or humidity start to climb. Learning to survive heat while dressed to the nines is essential to surviving summer as a Lolita.
Layers
Consider multiple layers to be your enemy in the summer! The fewer overlapping layers of fabric you have trapping body heat against your skin, the better! This is one reason why you may observe others going blouse-less with their
JSK and wearing it more like a sundress as the temperature intensifies. While that is one surefire option to avoid layers, I personally don't like to leave so much of my bare skin on my shoulders, arms, and back exposed to the Cursed Daystar. Alternatively you can wear an
OP (one piece dress) which eliminates the need for a blouse to cover your arms and shoulders, or you can wear a skirt with a blouse or
cutsew to limit the overlapping fabric on your torso.
You can choose to skip the
petticoat since they're usually made of several layers of fabric, and often lined as well, but your skirt shape will suffer without one. Instead of a traditional
petti you could invest in a hoop skirt. A hoop skirt that works in Lolita fashion usually has 2 or 3 hoops made of a flexible metal or plastic suspended on fabric belts affixed to a waistband that create the shape of a petticoat and supports the skirt when worn underneath a main piece. These support a poofy skirt but don't have any fabric touching your body below the waistband, which can be more comfortable in the heat. They can be somewhat awkward though, as the hoops can be ungainly when sitting in chairs, they can shift oddly out of place when wearing a purse, and cheap ones can show through skirt fabric and look sorta bone-y, so YMMV. Some people layer a light petticoat over a hoop skirt to hide the hoops.
Another option for supporting a skirt with minimal layers is to wear
bloomers that have layers of frills sewn onto them. These are very low poof, but can still be better than nothing for supporting a short, light summer skirt.
I never skip bloomers since my thighs can chafe fiercely, and sweaty thighs chafe even worse. I wear cotton bloomers that at least absorb sweat. Alternatively, there's many companies lately who make shorts for wearing underneath dresses and skirts to prevent chafe and help offer security from prying eyes as well. They serve the same approximate purposes as bloomers but aren't as cute and fluffy. I have yet to try any of these myself but for those who usually shirk bloomers they could save your legs during the sweaty season. These are basically this generation's version of ye olde bike shorts.
Fabric
Make sure the pieces you choose to wear can breathe and hopefully absorb or wick some perspiration away from your skin. A lot of Lolita dresses use shiny, slick, non-breathing synthetic fabric as a liner layer, or are completely made out of stifling fabric that traps heat and moisture against your body. Don't wear them in summer. Cotton, linen, and thin merino wool are the ideal fabrics for hot weather as they are at least breathable, and able to absorb or wick some moisture. Light airy polyester dresses could also work, as the polyester fibres can be good at wicking, but it really comes down to how breathable they are.
Try to find cotton main pieces that are either unlined, or lined with a thin cotton. While a polyester-lined skirt probably won't matter quite as much if you're going to wear a petticoat or hoop-skirt, having any non-breathable bodice fabric enclosing your chest and back will ensure that you will have a sweaty and uncomfortable time.
Short-sleeved tops, such as unlined cotton blouses and cotton-jersey cutsews, are good options to pair with skirts and JSKs. Some people use polyester mesh tops, which won't absorb or wick away any sweat but could be more useful in high humidity.
Some brands used to, and still do, make cutsew camisoles suitable for casual use in Lolita. They're sometimes fairly plain, perhaps decorated with some ruffles or bows, and sometimes with a cutesy print on them. If you're wanting minimal fabric, this is definitely the way to go.
Shade
The Cursed Day Star is one of my least favourite parts of summer. Keeping the sun off of your skin and creating a small pool of shade is easy to accomplish with a
parasol. Brands often release parasols that are basically umbrellas but decorated with ruffles and lace, which are very cute and suit the fashion well. They work for the purpose of creating shade and can also help in the event of an unexpected summer downpour.
Where I live it can get very windy, so it can be difficult to use a
standard umbrella without it threatening to blow away or be turned inside-out and damaged. So I
make liberal use of my
battenberg lace parasol as well. I use mine nearly every time I go outside in the summer, even in my normie disguise.
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I bought mine at a historical museum. They typically come in white, ivory, and black. |
When I first started out in the fashion in the 2010s these were
touted by various "authorities" and experienced figures in the fashion
as "ita" and not suitable for Lolita Fashion. I imagine these people
must have never had an umbrella turn inside out in a gust of wind. My
battenberg lace umbrella doesn't turn inside out or get violently
buffeted by the wind because the air goes through the myriad eyelets and
holes in the lace, which makes it ideal for daily use, especially when
the sole purpose is use as a sun-shade. Its not perfect, as it has the
holes mentioned above which the sunlight can shine through, but I find
that the air doesn't get quite so hot under my ventilated lace parasol
as, where the bubble of air under a standard parasol gets sort of
stifling and warm.
Leg wear
It shouldn't surprise anyone that full nylon tights would be very hot in the summer. But even the thicker nylon or blended knit knee socks that many brands put out can be stifling in the heat. Socks complete your
coord and protect your feet from chafing, but at least let your calves - and especially the knee ditch - breathe. Crew length and ankle socks are the right choice for when it's sweltering outside. Plenty of them come with cute prints and ruffled trim these days, so you're sure to find something to suit your style. If you want more coverage like tights or knee-socks, try to find openwork like lace or fishnet to still ensure your skin isn't being suffocated in non-breathing layers.
Hats
Since wigs are very hot (wefts of synthetic hair layered over your own hair), it should go without saying that in order to avoid being too hot you should opt for your natural hair. Many people aren't comfortable with their natural hair with Lolita Fashion - perhaps they don't have very long hair, or don't have a style that they think suits the fashion, or maybe some other reasons as well. I hope that perhaps hats will offer them some relief during the warmer season.
Hats with brims can be super useful to keep the sun off your scalp, ears, and face, and if the brim is quite large it may even offer shade to your shoulders as well. Cute straw boater hats and other straw hats are common to see in summertime. Try to find ones decorated with lace and ribbons that suit your summer appropriate pieces. It would be a fun and relatively simple craft as well, to decorate a plain straw hat.
If straw hats don't match your style, lightweight cotton bonnets or maid-hats can also protect your head from the sun. Even just a half-bonnet will help cover the most sensitive part of your scalp. I know that AP has released several decorated visors, and this can help if even to just get the sun off your face, but it wouldn't shield your scalp from the UV rays.
Try to avoid felt hats during the summer, as they are more warm and insulating and may just make your head sweaty. If you're more goth-leaning and want a big dramatic black hat, you can find them in linen for a more heat-friendly material. Just remember - big brims catch the wind, and you may want a strap or ribbon to keep your hat firmly on your head so you don't have to chase it.
Cover-Ups
Cover-ups can be useful, especially if you've chosen to wear a JSK without a blouse or a camisole or bustier without sleeves. Loose knit or openwork knit boleros and cardigans can still be cooler than a blouse, and some openwork knits can even have cooling properties. This can also serve to shield your skin from the sun.
Openwork or mesh capes can also serve to keep your skin covered without being exposed. The more sheer the material, though, the more you may want to be mindful of exposure to the Cursed Day Star.
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Maybe a decade ago peignoirs and sheer over-dresses became popular, and I think they were perfect for a summer cover-up that added a floaty and relaxed vibe to any coord.
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| Example Summer-friendly CoordsI'll provide examples of gothic, sweet, and classic summer-firendly coords
using my above advice using currently
or recently available items. Sweet Coord Breakdown: This is an example of a skirt and cutsew coord. Skirts aren't as common in Lolita fashion these days, but I like how versatile they can be for comfort in warm weather. I was inspired by the combination of navy and red for a bright and summery coord, and tried to mirror the gingham in several pieces throughout the coord. It's not necessary to sprinkle a pattern like gingham throughout the coord but it feels more OTT to do it and really adds to the overall cohesiveness, even when items aren't made to match. Classic Coord Breakdown: Sometimes its just too hot for socks and a blouse, so some people opt to wear their JSK blouseless, but the semi-sheer cardigan ensures your skin won't roast in the sun. I found some very cute frilly sandals that would be at-home in any coord, and since its so hot you'll want a parasol and a fan. The hat has a cute ribbon that can tie under your chin to ensure it doesn't blow away in the summer breeze. The JSK is unlined, but comes with an optional cotton underskirt to ensure its not see-through. The light colours feel floaty and feminine and would help to prevent any extra heat from solar gain. Gothic Coord Breakdown: This is an example of how pared down your coord can get if you have an OP. This may start to look a bit more normie, but when its 35°C you have to cut some corners if you want to be comfortable. The lace open-toe boots are sheer and have a very romantic vibe and can be worn sockless, and the ruffled purse and ruffled trim on the parasol add a lot of drama without it having to be stifling on your body. The bonnet would help keep the sun off of your head, but you could swap it out for a basic headbow or rectangle headdress to reduce the fabric without sacrificing too much style. The open neckline of the dress allows you lots of room to play with a dramatic necklace if you choose, and the longer hemline will protect your legs from solar gain while catching the breeze.
In Practice I struggle in the summer due to a personal heat intolerance, my capacity for getting debilitating migraines from heat and the sun, and my very fair complexion burning easily. I don't go out much in the summer, let alone in Lolita! So instead of examples of my infrequent summer coords, I have collected something better: Momoko's summer coords from Kamikaze Girls. |
Many of these coords are worn as casual house dresses, so they aren't accessorized. Even so, seeing Lolita Fashion as a casual dress is inspiring, as you don't have to feel compelled to be OTT. The matching maid hat is a very cute detail.
The light cotton material on this JSK looks very comfortable, perfect for sitting down and sewing in.
While this OP has a high neckline and a more fitted bodice, so I imagine it would be fairly warm in the summer, she has opted to go sockless and wear a hat, so she still looks decently comfortable. I'd probably opt for ankle-socks to prevent sweaty foot chafe, but YMMV.
The adorable pink sandals are very casual, yet they feel at home with this kitschy yellow and orange JSK.
Yet another petticoat-less, blouse-less, sock-less coord with cute sandals and a parasol.
The fully shirred bodice on this JSK would be comfortable to lounge around in at home.
In Closing
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hope I've given you some ideas on how to think about layers, fabric, and item choices for your summer coords. Even with the right items the heat can be exhausting and uncomfortable, but if you plan your coords properly maybe you won't get heat-stroke from the mid-summer meetups.
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